Crossbow Buying Guide: Draw Weight, Speed and What Actually Matters

A crossbow’s spec sheet throws a lot of numbers at you — draw weight in pounds, speed in FPS, kinetic energy in foot-pounds — and it’s easy to assume bigger is always better on every one of them. It isn’t. Draw weight past a certain point just makes the bow harder to cock without adding useful power, and raw speed matters less than how a bolt’s weight and length are matched to the bow shooting it.

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This crossbow buying guide breaks down what each spec actually changes, how reverse-draw and compound designs differ, and what to check before you buy.

Draw Weight: How Much Power Do You Actually Need

Draw weight is how many pounds of force it takes to pull the string back to its locked, ready-to-fire position. Most hunting crossbows sold today sit between 150 and 200 pounds, well above the 30-70 pounds of a typical compound bow, because a crossbow has a much shorter power stroke and needs more stored energy to push a bolt to a usable speed over that short distance.

More draw weight is not automatically better. Past roughly 175-185 pounds, the gains in speed flatten out while the bow gets harder and heavier to cock, especially without a crank. Check your state or province’s legal minimum draw weight for the game you plan to hunt before anything else — it varies by animal and by region, and a bow under the minimum simply isn’t a legal hunting option there.

Speed (FPS) and Kinetic Energy: What the Numbers Mean

Speed, measured in feet per second (FPS), gets the marketing attention, but kinetic energy (measured in foot-pounds) is what actually determines whether a bolt has enough force to ethically take down the game you’re hunting. A lighter bolt flies faster from the same bow; a heavier bolt carries more energy at a given speed and penetrates deeper. Most hunting associations recommend a minimum of 25 foot-pounds of kinetic energy for deer-sized game and more for larger animals — check the published spec for a given bolt weight rather than judging a bow by its advertised top FPS alone, since that number is almost always measured with the lightest bolt the manufacturer offers.

Reverse-Draw vs Compound Crossbows

A compound crossbow has limbs that sit forward of the riser, in the same general layout as a compound hunting bow. They’re usually cheaper and narrower front-to-back, but concentrate more weight toward the front, which can make a long day in a treestand feel front-heavy.

A reverse-draw crossbow flips the limb position so they sit closer to the shooter, moving the weight back toward the body. This generally gives a longer power stroke for the same overall length (meaning more speed without a longer bow), a more balanced carry, and quieter operation, at a real price premium over a comparable compound model.

Cocking Mechanism: Rope Cocker, Crank or ACUdraw

At 150-200 pounds of draw weight, almost nobody cocks a modern crossbow by hand. A rope cocking device is the cheapest option and roughly halves the effective pull, and it matters for consistency too — cocking by hand introduces small left-right variance in the string that a rope or crank removes. A crank cocking device (sold under names like ACUdraw) reduces the effort further still, which matters most for hunters with shoulder or back limitations, at the cost of a slightly slower reload between shots. If you expect to take a second shot at moving game, test how fast you can actually re-cock a given mechanism before you commit to it.

Bolt Length and Weight: Why They Must Match the Bow

Crossbow bolts are shorter and sturdier than regular arrows, and unlike a compound bow, a crossbow’s listed FPS is only accurate with the exact bolt length and weight the manufacturer tested it with. A bolt that’s too light for the bow’s power stroke can over-stress the limbs and void a warranty; one that’s too heavy loses the speed advantage you bought the bow for. Buy bolts from the same manufacturer, or ones explicitly rated for your bow’s draw weight and power stroke, rather than matching on price alone.

What to Check Before You Buy

• Kinetic energy at your actual bolt weight, not the advertised FPS. The headline speed number is almost always measured with the lightest bolt available.
• Noise and vibration dampening. Limb dampeners and a string suppressor matter more in a treestand than on a range, where a loud shot can spook game before the bolt arrives.
• Scope or optic included or compatible. A bundled scope saves money but is often the first thing serious hunters replace; check whether the rail is a standard Weaver/Picatinny mount before assuming an upgrade is simple.
• Width when cocked, for treestand and blind use. A wide axle-to-axle measurement can be awkward to maneuver in a tight ground blind.
• Trigger pull weight and safety mechanism. A crisp, consistent trigger affects accuracy as much as anything else on the bow.

Common Mistakes When Buying a Crossbow

• Buying on top FPS alone. Two bows with the same advertised speed can perform very differently once you account for the bolt weight each was tested with.
• Ignoring the legal draw weight minimum for your game and region. Rules vary by state, province and animal — check before you buy, not after.
• Mixing bolt brands or weights without checking the spec. This is the most common cause of inconsistent groups and, in extreme cases, limb damage.
• Skipping a rope cocker or crank to save money. Inconsistent hand-cocking is one of the most common, and most avoidable, causes of poor accuracy.

Where to Find a Crossbow and Current Discounts

Velocity Outdoor is the group behind the Ravin, CenterPoint and Valhalla crossbow lines, covering both reverse-draw and compound designs across a range of draw weights. It’s worth checking SaveItMore’s current Ravin, CenterPoint and Valhalla coupon codes before you order, since an active code can take a real chunk off the price of a bow, a bolt set or a scope bundle. If you’re putting together the rest of a hunting setup at the same time, our guide on how to choose the right camo pattern for where you hunt covers the other half of a treestand kit, and our garage storage cabinet buying guide is worth a read if you need somewhere secure to keep a bow and bolts between seasons.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a higher draw weight always better on a crossbow?

No. Past roughly 175-185 pounds the gains in speed and kinetic energy level off, while the bow gets harder to cock without a crank. Match draw weight to the legal minimum for your game and to a cocking method you can use consistently, not to the highest number on the shelf.

Is a reverse-draw crossbow worth the extra cost over a compound?

For most hunters, it’s a comfort and noise upgrade rather than a necessity. A reverse-draw design carries more evenly and shoots quieter, which matters most if you spend long hours in a treestand or hunt animals with sharp hearing. A compound crossbow at a lower price still performs well for most hunting situations.

Can I use any bolt with any crossbow?

Not safely. Bolt length and weight need to match what the manufacturer tested and rated the bow for. A mismatched bolt can throw off accuracy or, at the extreme, stress the limbs enough to cause damage and void the warranty.

Do I need a crank cocking device, or is a rope cocker enough?

A rope cocker is enough for most hunters and is the far cheaper option. A crank is worth the extra cost if you have any shoulder, back or grip limitation, or simply want the lowest possible cocking effort, at the cost of a slightly slower reload.

What kinetic energy do I need for deer-sized game?

Most hunting associations recommend at least 25 foot-pounds of kinetic energy for deer-sized game, measured at your actual bolt weight rather than the bow’s advertised top speed. Larger game needs more; check your bow’s published energy figures at the bolt weight you intend to shoot.

The Bottom Line

A crossbow is worth judging by kinetic energy at your real bolt weight first, and the advertised top FPS number second. Check the legal draw weight minimum for your game before anything else, decide between a compound and reverse-draw layout based on budget and how you carry the bow, and buy bolts matched to the bow’s actual spec rather than by price.